Top 3 Skin Care Myths Debunked

Myth #1: If you have oily skin you don't need moisturizer. 

I know it sounds counterintuitive, but moisturizers are not just for dry skin. Every skin type--oily, acne-prone, normal, or dry--needs some sort of moisturizer to keep it hydrated, balanced, and nourished. Also, oily skin can be dehydrated (lacking water) just as commonly as dry skin. So if you don't moisturize, your skin will just produce more oil to try and compensate.

Myth #2: If you don't wear makeup, you don't need to wash your face before bed. 

I hear this excuse a lot. So here is a little illustration from my personal life: Today I did not wear any makeup. I did put my moisturizer and sunscreen on after my shower, like a good esthetician. I ate three meals, sneezed and blew my noise several times, touched my keyboard and many bathroom doors, itched my nose countless times (4 in the last 2 minutes), touched my face at least 100 times, rubbed my eyes, went outside into the sun and pollution, pet a dog, held my neighbor's baby (who also touched my face), drove and put gas in my car, and so on. Even though I washed my hands numerous times, it's pretty clear that my face is anything but clean. And now I'm going to get into bed and rub all of this into my drool-soaked pillow for the next 8 hours. Sleep is the time for your skin to rest and rejuvenate, and it can't heal if it's busy fighting off the effects of the day.

Myth #3: Anything marked "natural" or "chemical free" is best. 

I have been an esthetician for 15 years. And more often than not, when I see someone on my table complaining of acne, redness, and inflammation they're buying their skin care from Whole Foods. In their minds, "natural" is better. But the truth is that organic skin care just doesn't deliver results. In fact, a lot of these "natural" ingredients can cause inflammation and allergic reactions if not formulated with lab-derived delivery systems. Read more on this topic in my previous blog: http://ritual-spa.com/the-truth-about-organic-skin-care/

Seeing Red?

5 TIPS FOR TREATING SENSITIVE SKIN

Everyone loves a sensitive soul. But sensitive skin? That’s a different story. Understanding what causes inflammation is the first step to stop seeing red.

1. Determine If You Are Sensitive or Sensitized. The root of your redness will determine how to treat it. “Sensitive” skin is red due to internal factors like hormones, diet, and DNA. It can manifest in a general ruddy complexion, reactivity to certain products and foods, or varying degrees of Rosacea. And chances are, other family members have it, too.

On the contrary, “sensitized” skin is red due to external factors that compromise the skin’s natural barrier. Daily habits and environmental factors like the overuse of harsh ingredients, product allergies, changing weather conditions, and sun damage can all cause unnecessary redness.

2. Don’t Use “Natural” or “Organic” Products. People with sensitive skin often turn to “natural” products because they mistakenly believe that what's safe to eat is safe for the skin. But these products have an inappropriate pH for skin that can trigger allergies, creating even more redness and inflammation.

3. Don’t Overuse Harsh Ingredients. Having sensitive skin can make you more prone to other conditions like excessive dryness, wrinkles, and acne. And the typical treatments for these facial flaws can break down the skin’s barrier function. Heavy oils, glycolic acids, and retinols are all off limits.

4. See an Esthetician. Sensitive skin not only looks and feels bad, it can cause all kinds of problems if left unchecked. Effective treatment requires finding the right balance of active and soothing ingredients, and a professional esthetician can help. Book an appointment today.

It's Peel Season!

Time to Get Tough on Facial Flaws.

Everybody knows how much I love peels. This versatile form of chemical exfoliation sloughs off dead skin while triggering new cell production. Why is this important? Because almost every facial flaw--from acne to congestion to wrinkles to pigmentation--is rooted in exfoliation. And now that summer is over, it's the perfect time to start sloughing!

Myth: Peels are Scary! I understand that the concept of a "peel" is a little foreboding. But there are so many wonderful options today that allow you to choose a pace that suits your lifestyle. You don't have to peel to get results. In most cases, you won't peel at all. And you definitely won't look like Samantha from Sex & the City.

Light Peels. These can be added on to a facial or received a la carte. We offer AHA (lactic/glycolic), BHA (salicylic), and pumpkin peel formulations to ensure the perfect fit for your skin type.

Medium-Depth Chemical Peels. These stronger lactic peels from industry-expert PCA Skin are a great choice when you want to get a little more aggressive. We offer both TCA and Jessner formulations that are completely customizable. They take a little at-home prep work, and work best when done in succession, but can dramatically improve your skin with little to no downtime.As an interesting side note: we get a lot of calls from people asking percentages on our peels. The strength of a peel has more to do with its ph level than the actual percentage. A 10% glycolic, for example, can be a lot stronger than a 30% glycolic if it is formulated with a lower ph. So if you are one of those people shopping for peels on Amazon, be very careful. These ph levels are rarely divulged so you don't know what you are really getting.

Friendly Fare

Eating Your Way to Better Skin.

We’ve all heard the phrase, “you are what you eat.” Sure…we get it. Eating well and drinking lots of water lead to a healthier body. Not a lot of argument needed. But what some of us don’t realize is how much food affects our skin.

Try These:

Salmon. Rich in omega-3 fatty acids, fatty fishes like Salmon help combat inflammation that can break down collagen and elastin. They also strengthen the cell membranes, allowing the cells to hold more moisture for a brighter, plumper, and more youthful complexion. Can’t stomach this seafood staple? Try fish oil supplements instead.

Kale. Kale is one of the best sources of lutein and zeaxanthin, nutrients that absorb and neutralize the free radicals created by UV rays. It’s also rich in Vitamin K, which helps diffuse dark under-eye circles. Plus, just one cup gives you your entire day’s requirement of skin-firming Vitamins A and C.

Dark Chocolate. This sweet treat is rich in cocoa flavanols, plant compounds that help protect your skin from UV damage, fight free radicals, and increase blood flow. Dark chocolate also helps reduce stress hormones that can lead to collagen breakdown (wrinkles) and excess oil production (acne).

Avoid These:

Dairy. Lactose intolerance isn’t the only side effect of your love affair with dairy. While yogurt, milk, and other items have plenty of health benefits, certain hormones in dairy products may stimulate the overproduction of oil that can lead to clogged pores and pimples.

Sugar. Cake. Cookies. Alcohol. Certain sweets kick-start a process called glycation, whereby sugar molecules bind to protein structures in your skin. This makes them weak and dysfunctional, which shows up on the surface as wrinkles, sagginess, and a loss of radiance.

Gluten. Oh sigh…how I love my bread. But high glycemic-index foods have been linked to both acne and wrinkles. First, they cause a spike in blood sugar, which triggers the hormones that stimulate oil production and breakouts. Second, just like sugar, they trigger collagen breakdown through the glycation process discussed above. Check Out More Face-Friendly Foods >>

Summer Skin S.O.S.

5 Tips for Surviving the Season

Hurray for summer! Blue skies. Longer days. And tons of fun in the sun. But while you're soaking it up, your skin is suffering. Here are a few tips to minimize sun damage and stay safe all season long.

Hydrate. Inside and Out. Did you know that the average adult loses 2-4 liters of water every day? So obviously, you need to consume more H2O to stay hydrated in the summer. But the water you drink can't penetrate through the dead skin cell layers of the Epidermis. Try a moisturizing mask and a toner/spritzer to keep your skin hydrated, too.

Change Your Moisturizer. As temperatures and humidity rise, your oil production goes into overdrive. Swap your rich winter cream to a lightweight moisturizer to help keep skin balanced.

Use a Vitamin C Serum. The sun can do some serious damage. In addition to increasing the risk of skin cancer, it breaks down collagen, darkens brown spots, and creates free radicals that wreak havoc on healthy cells. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help filter UV rays and counteract the sun's negative effects.

Use Sunscreen. Whether you burn or tan, are light skinned or dark skinned, you're susceptible to sun damage. Protect yourself with an SPF 30 that has both physical and chemical ingredients. And remember, sunscreen does not replace your moisturizer so make sure you're using both. To learn more about sunscreen, check out our blog.

Treat Sunburned Faces Immediately. To calm a sunburn, use a bag of frozen veggies or put ice in a plastic bag and apply. Don't put ice cubes or cold water directly on the skin. To prevent peeling, try a soothing aloe mask and extra moisturizer. And don't pick at blisters or peeling skin or the skin might scar.

Pregnancy and the Skin

Not everyone gets the "glow!"

With Mother's Day just around the corner, I thought it would be a good time to talk about how pregnancy affects your skin. The baby news may be joyful, but the problems that follow are anything but.

Acne. If you don't have acne-prone skin, then you probably won't break out during your pregnancy. If you do, then it often depends on where your normal hormone levels lie. Thus, if you tend to be a little heavier on the androgen side, then being pregnant with a girl can reduce breakouts. On the other hand, being pregnant with a boy can lead to excess oil production and make your breakouts worse. But don't despair! There are plenty of baby-safe treatments to try:

Yes: Low-dose Benzoyl Peroxide, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sulfur Masks, Microdermabrasion, High Frequency
No: Accutane, Tetracycline, Retinols, Salicylic Acid

Pigmentation. During pregnancy, many moms-to-be see an increase in pigmentation called Melasma or Chloasma. Caused by a rapid increase in melanin production triggered by rising estrogen levels, these patchy brown spots are usually temporary and can be treated safely with a number of different ingredients:

Yes: Azelaic Acid, Vitamin C, Kojic Acid, Arbutin
No: Hydroquinone, Retinol, Sun Exposure

Eczema/Dermatitis. Pregnancy hormones and increased blood flow will often make your skin more sensitive. If you start to see dry patches or flare ups, try one of these anti-inflammatory treatments:

Yes: Chamomile, Calendula, Coal Tar, Antihistamines, Oatmeal
No: Cyclosporine, Protopic, Elidel, Alcohol, Harsh Detergents

Of course, check with your doctor if any concerns arise.

Hello, Hindsight?

SKIN CARE ADVICE FOR MY YOUNGER SELF.

‘Tis the season for holiday movies. And my personal favorite, A Christmas Carol, always makes me ponder the possibilities. If I could go back in time, what would I change? Unfortunately, any serious alteration might set off a Butterfly Effect. So I’d be happy with just a few words of wisdom about my passion…skin care. Here’s what I’d say…

“Wear SPF 30 every day.” Obviously skin Cancer is the biggest danger here. I don’t want to downplay that. But I have spent thousands of dollars trying to correct the other effects of sun damage like wrinkles and pigmentation.

“Wash your face morning and night, even if you don’t wear make up.” So many people tell me that they don’t wash their face morning and night. But we produce oil 24/7. Throw in a little pollution, dog kisses, sticky kid hands, and drool and you’ve got a recipe for clogged pores and irritation.

“Don’t smoke.” Smoking asphyxiates the skin, which leads to clogged pores, dehydration, and collagen breakdown. And those vertical lines around your lips? Totally caused by puffing and puckering.

“Don’t use drug store products.” Before I became an esthetician, I never bought professional skin care because, well, I didn’t know any better. I also thought that I couldn’t afford them. But products sold to the masses have such low percentages of active ingredients that they basically do nothing. They also have a lot of alcohol and cheap fillers. Why settle when there are professional products close to the same price?

“Start using eye cream before you need it.” Oh crow’s feet…how you taunt me every time I look in the mirror. Using eye cream in your 20s and 30s helps keep fine lines from forming in the first place.

“Get regular facials.” I used to view facials as a luxury. But now I know that getting regular facials really does make a difference. And I hear it time from my clients all of the time. They help keep your pores clear, and your skin exfoliated and hydrated. It’s all about wellness and prevention, just like going to the dentist.

It’s never too late to start good habits. Happy Holidays!

Spring Cleaning Time!

YOUR WARDROBE ISN'T THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO CHANGE.

It's spring! Time to box those boots, store those sweaters, and clean those corners. But what about your personal products? Since your skin changes with every season, it's the perfect time to change your skin care routine, too.

Throw Out Old Products. Most lotions and potions have a one to two-year shelf life, but cluttering your cabinets with products you're "saving for later" is just not worth it. Bacteria could grow. Expiration dates could pass. And efficacy could degrade. Toss 'em! Like that box of Benadryl that expired in 2010 and those pants that "may fit again one day."

Switch Your Moisturizer. Dry winter skin caused by heaters, ski trips, and colder climates clearly calls for a heavier moisturizer. But the temperate weather and humidity of spring means your oil production should normalize, and you'll want a lightweight moisturizer to keep things balanced.

Trade Your Retinol for Peptides. Retinol is the gold standard for anti-aging. But using it during sunny seasons can be dangerous, increasing the likelihood of pigmentation and chemical burns. Spring is a great time to switch to a peptide product that will continue triggering collagen production without the risks of retinol.

Get a Facial. There's no better way to prep your skin for spring than with a facial. Slough off dead cell buildup, clear out impactions, and get advice on what your skin needs this season.

The Truth About Organic Skin Care

"ALL-NATURAL" IS NOT ALL GOOD

The topic of organic skin care is a hot one. The media and marketing have painted a horrific picture of "chemicals," parabens," and the "toxic" nature of any product that is not "all-natural." So I completely understand why people have switched to shopping at Whole Foods for their beauty needs. But I stand steadfast on my personal pulpit. Organic products are not good for your skin, and they don't deliver results.Blasphemy, right? Now don't get me wrong, I love botanical and natural ingredients. But these ingredients must be combined with their synthetic brothers and sisters to actually work.

The Skin Won't Absorb Natural Ingredients Without Help. Eating blueberries, carrots, and the like is great for the body. But the skin is not so hospitable. If your skin doesn't recognize an ingredient applied topically, it will reject it in the form of allergenic reactions, acne, irritation, and the breakdown of collagen. In order for the skin to accept and absorb these unknowns, they must be mixed with biogenic ingredients (ingredients found naturally in the body) as well as lab-derived delivery systems designed to penetrate.

Chemicals and Parabens are Not Evil. In fact, they create stability in products that make them safer to use and more effective. You might have heard about some studies that said parabens were endocrine disrupters linked to breast cancer. But did you hear that these studies were later disproven? No, because the media didn't want to admit that they jumped the gun on creating a panic. Thus cosmetic manufacturers were forced to go paraben-free, not because they were dangerous, but because the truth was swept under the rug.

Organic Products Don't Deliver Results. It's true. They're simply unable to incorporate and use active ingredients such as peptides, retinols, and vitamins to fight aging. And natural ingredients that have beneficial properties like blueberries (antioxidant) or sulfer (anti-inflammatory) just won't penetrate without the help of cosmetic chemists and lab-derived bonding ingredients. So get the best of both worlds...use products that contain both!

Don’t Believe the Likes

3 skin care trends to avoid (#diyfail)

With the explosion of self-proclaimed beauty bloggers posting on Instagram, Pinterest, and Youtube, it's easy to get sucked into viral trends that promise amazing results. But just because a post gets play doesn't mean that the content isn't too good to be true. In fact, it can be downright dangerous.

Pore Strips. We've all tried these. You get them wet, press them onto your nose, and then rip them off like a band-aid. Then you stare at amazement at all the blackheads sticking up from the strip. But guess what? There's more skin on the strip than oil. It literally rips your skin off, and only removes the superficial blackhead top from the surface of your skin. A few days later,  the blackhead reemerges.

Sheet Masks. Sheet masks are the rage right now. We love them in the spa environment, too. But unfortunately, the ones you buy in the store or online are very different than what you receive during a professional facial. Anything sold to the masses is going to be less active than what's sold to licensed estheticians. Is the Hello Kitty sheet mask you bought on Amazon fun? Sure. But it really won't do anything except give you a great #selfie.

DIY Skin Care. I understand the lure of kitchen cosmetics. What's more fun than scouring social media for recipes you can concoct at home? Everyone has the mad scientist gene, but there's a reason why skin care products are regulated. It takes the knowledge and skill of a cosmetic chemist to create safe, effective formulations. Even if you use the same ingredients, you can easily burn your face (baking soda masks) or rip off your skin (homemade charcoal masks).